Biggest Wave Ever Surfed

@jerrynulty1479 says:

I had a 3 wave rouge set hold down at Chuns when I was young and strong. I wiped out in the impact zone on the drop and the heavy trades blew my board back into my face…it was only double overhead but the beating left memories. There was so much air bubbles in the water I would not float or start to rise and when I did make it up, there was another lip coming down on my head. I still like Chuns…,

@chuchonmc says:

As a surf photographer I only have one more tip for these situations:
– Think always about the next one. It doesn't matter if a big wave is going to smash you, while you are diving you have to think "the next one is worst" instead of "just this and I'm safe". Think always there is a next one because many times will be. That with the calm and the breathe made myself to escape from many dangerous situations for me and my camera.

@tinanaioti3214 says:

Exactly. Mine too. I’ll just watch from the shore

@srfy287 says:

I know that all sounds fine and dandy. But I'm a pretty hybrid guy to begin with so unfortunately, I always panic even if I'm held under on a 2 foot wave it's just my personality. I wish I could do better

@FOHguy says:

Back in the 70s, we didn't have jet skis and such. We paddled in, got pitched over the falls and died. And by the gods, we enjoyed it. Every time!😂

@RUForeal-sg3uf says:

I once I ditched my board at Hazards Canyon Montana De Oro CA, on over 10 foot sets total of six in a row. I checked my 6 and no other surfers were following, but still regret ditching. Had a weak not neoprene coated bungee cord leash that snapped. The board washed up and the rest was easy just dive before the break on the remaining cleanups. I dove so deep I saw some fishes on the reef ..very cool. I used a technique when sucked up in the face. Point the nose of the board toward the shore, hugging the tale tight. Punch then pull the board through the face, if sucked over hold onto the board very tight and its possible to ride out the soup. It's a rough ride with some flips but eventually you'll fly out of the soup. Hold downs never last that long though seem like forever in a panic. Getting caught inside will always suck, but becomes less of a nightmare over time.