Full Movie: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing – Greg Long, Gary Linden, Todd Glaser [HD]
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Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world’s most decorated big wave surfer, Greg Long. The film’s title, Sine Qua Non, is a Latin phrase, which, roughly translated, means, “Without which, [there is] nothing.” Greg Long presents the viewer with a first-hand account of the life-threatening pursuit of big waves as well a look at the horrific wipeouts involved, including one that nearly ended his life. Going deeper, Long admits his pursuit could be viewed as selfish, especially when surrounded by a very close-knit family that is concerned first and foremost about his safety.
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How did you, chase Mave's? Invitees only! Ask Sheriff Dept!
LONG? < NG! Damn racist terrorist– communicates! OR LANK– Eastern EU! OOps– a man's penis / Pipeline!
wow !!!! what a kid ! that is just amazing ! astonishing level of commitment ! brave as hell ! al the best to him ! : ) he speaks with alot of appreciation, i love it, cool dude to listen to. what a phenomenal life. much respects.
Greg looks like Jake gylenhal
his dad whistled the entire soundtrack to LOTR when he was talking. sounded like a kettle stuck inside a flute. Teas ready. sounded like a football referee on speed. sounded like a parrot at a rave. sounded like 1000 bombs being dropped by a plane. 10/10
I agree yu read it wrong
Thanks
Interesting anecdote, I had a prescription drug made for me called Sinequan. Great for a sweet sleep. Cute group of American surfers in this video . I love airheads.
Impressive.
So true we only see that milisecond , not the whole story behind it , we're all thinking it's the best job to be a pro surfer , but the stress, mental ability, physical ability, i have mad respect for any of these braddahs with the biggest ballz on earth to rush. Like keaulana said "it's easy to surf surviving is the hard part". That stays with me everytime i surf. ✊✊🏄♂️🏄♂️
there's a place that blow the banks away up north off Punta Gorda Called the Great Break can be found on old fishing charts of the area true 100' waves and bigger not a backwash to clear out The Great white get the sound of Killer Whales eating and play it on a underwater microphone they will all leave no one has touched it to this day there lots of spots up there no one has surfed Potato Patch has so many spots 9 miles out reef and sandbars that get huge one friend of mine had a old photo off the Bridge of a super Tanker pushing through a closeout whitewater closed out the bay made it through it was so much higher than the Tanker it was nuts but it was real those freak days still happen I got one of those waves once myself luck was a big part of the Board I had was all wrong only 7' and didn't hold in well and wished I had my 8'6" but didn't think a 20'er would be rolling in that day had worked all day piecing plumb and line in the valley got home and the waves were a soild 8-10' backs not faces 20' faces and was living in Ariz for 2 years not surfing at all was out of shape but still was in pretty good shape that wave just smoked my ars it freight trained me so hard as I hit the bottom turn 3/4 of a mile out further than anyone else out there they all got caught inside I got major air at the take off as well as a back wash came up the wave it was pretty fun hitting it had some airtime
Someone please explain me what 2:24 means, Hawaii and Peru was the only places where good waves can be surfed?🤔🤔🤔
Someone PLEASE explain me what 2:20 means
Why does he mention “Peru” if Peru hasn’t big waves…
OCTOBER 26th!! THE DAY OF MY BIRTHDAAAAYYY!!❤️❤️❤️
Yeah I race motocross and at 40 years old I was still showing the young kids how to get a holeshot,my family has never seen me race or even ride ,but my aunt came with my uncle and it made me worry thinking about how nervous she probably was not knowing that I devoted my life to riding a dirt bike and practice 30 hours more than most people work there full time job,eat sleep ride….
Why wouldn't you put a small strap on your board