Greg Long: Big Wave Rider | Nat Geo Live - Biggest Wave Ever Surfed

Greg Long: Big Wave Rider | Nat Geo Live

In 2012, international surfing champion Greg Long set out to ride the biggest wave of his life. The monster wave nearly killed him. To truly recover, Long knew that he had to face the wave once more.
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Greg Long: Big Wave Rider | Nat Geo Live

National Geographic
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Reblogged 5 years ago from www.youtube.com

#Greg #Live #Long #Rider #WAVE

Comments

Fabio Migliorini says:

21st June 2019 at 11:51 pm

Great courageous Greg

Aquatic Mullet says:

22nd June 2019 at 12:05 am

What a great story what a great nice bloke Greg you are a legend the surfing world is so happy you made it and to go back and surf the wave that almost took your life and to do that you need big balls and a big heart in witch you truly have mate thanks for sharing your experience cheers

FatGuysCanSURF2 THOMAS says:

22nd June 2019 at 12:20 am

Vest have made big wave surfing SOOo much safer

Lyndon Robertshaw says:

22nd June 2019 at 12:51 am

awesome, absolutely awesome

Tuberworks Jones says:

22nd June 2019 at 1:19 am

In the for marijuana is stupid Ted conferences

BASSdelight says:

22nd June 2019 at 1:41 am

"grow" towards what Greg?

Birdlips says:

22nd June 2019 at 1:42 am

Ehh he get respect.

Seb Rhoden says:

22nd June 2019 at 2:01 am

who tf disliked

Ger Devanny says:

22nd June 2019 at 2:28 am

Only a surfer knows the feeling.

Arnold Stollar says:

He can reincarnate as a dolphin.

22nd June 2019 at 2:48 am

He sings with ‘Avalon’ sometimes.

Elmo Blatch says:

22nd June 2019 at 3:10 am

Amazing athletes, for sure. These guys are amazing. I once heard big wave surfers compared to free solo rock climbers (no ropes) but that's not a fair comparison. If you make a mistake on a massive wave, the odds are way more than 50/50 of survival. Make a mistake on a big wall while free solo-ing, and you are 100% dead every single time.

Sean O'Brieon says:

22nd June 2019 at 3:35 am

"..if we don't occasionally step outside of our comfort zones.." ( re:statement during1st minute of film)….Like, every single day, our life revolving entirely around stepping outside of our comfort zones, yeah….
Interesting attempt at explaining it…..though l more tend to believe that we're straight up addicted to adrenaline, creating methods for it's intensive release within the body-mind, in the same way that it is actually the dopamine, released from within their own bodies, and naturally occurring therein, which is the high and the addiction triggered and set off, (and also similarly: to a level many times higher than what would it would otherwise be within oneself) by the user of an amphetamine.
..As big wave surfers, and the like, we're adrenaline junkies…..
Similar results in what is released naturally within the body that creates both of the actual highs, and similar addiction to the rush created within, therefrom, with different forms of risk and possible cost or consequence involved therein, also. Many and great differences, but with a great many similarities in regards to what drives the addictive aspects within.

Wesley Singh says:

22nd June 2019 at 3:45 am

Waterman…. very cool bro you left your mark for sure.

Shivaputra Patil says:

22nd June 2019 at 4:02 am

Nice 😄😊

Rodney Smart says:

22nd June 2019 at 4:33 am

How to make something exciting into something totally boring.

Robert van der Feyst says:

22nd June 2019 at 4:55 am

That was awesome!! Inspiring! 🙂

convex says:

22nd June 2019 at 5:10 am

Why haven't they developed a small oxygen tank that could attach securely to the chest or back with a tube by the mouth. Not that hard

Adam Noce says:

22nd June 2019 at 5:26 am

Dude is tough as nails. Much respect!

Jonathan Iraggi says:

22nd June 2019 at 5:35 am

Ya that's right we used your tax dollars. We can do what ever we want so either do something or just eat our balls bro. We are America and our people like this gentlemen get first class protection anywhere any time. And that's how we roll you jealous jerk. That comment touched a nerve.