Back to Top

My story of the last swell I surfed

“This is not a story about scoring waves.
It´s not a surf raw clip of perfect waves, not about ripping manoeuvres or tons of spray in the water.
It´s not about pretending to explore a secret spot or editing a highlight reel.

Instead, this is a story about patience.

About slowly growing familiar with a new spot. About managing expectations I have of myself with the conditions the ocean provides. It´s about overcoming frustration and dealing with fear.

It´s a story about growing my comfort zone and about gaining something back I had lost.

It´s my story of the last swell I surfed.”

– Lena https://www.instagram.com/lena.kemna/

Video by Luigi Rapanelli https://www.instagram.com/r4panelli/

Thank you for the support along my adventures @IONvideochannel & @gshockeu
Additional footage by Orlanda Pereira https://www.instagram.com/orlandompereira/

Reblogged 1 day ago from www.youtube.com

Comments

@Andrea_Giammarinaro says:

Sooo so good
Keep it up!!

@ameliiemelody says:

Here to give you some love ❤

Leave a Reply