Biggest Wave Ever Surfed

Welcome to Dragon’s new Frame of Mind series. What does it all mean? It’s 60 seconds into a surfer’s cranium in flash-frame format, where we step into the realm of his everyday life and tap into what drives him. It’s raw, unedited, and DIY. Future episodes down the pipeline include Mick Fanning, Evan Geiselman, and Luke Hynd. But for now, we focus on Mr. Rob Machado. We got on the horn with him and asked him what exactly all these video cuts mean. Here are his answers:

Rob on Japan:
I love Japan…I’ve already been twice this year. I rarely turn down a trip there. As far as the waves go, I don’t think I’ve ever really surfed amazing waves in Japan, but it doesn’t matter to me. Sometimes, just being able to go surfing is enough. I love the culture, the people, the food, the level of respect that is giving amongst everyone, their passion for surfing — the list goes on and on. Thank you, Japan…

Rob on #VanLife:
The wood shell in the video is actually not my van — its Jay Nelson’s. Vans are the best. I don’t know if I could go back to a normal vehicle after Jay helped me build mine out. I keep my life in my van. My road trips are pretty short these days: Cardiff to Seaside, Seaside to Swamis. My van is lucky to get out of North County.

Rob on Shaping:
Shaping has been amazing for me ever since I shaped my first board in 2000. It’s such a creative outlet. Being able to ride something that you created, and then have instant feedback on it, is the best feeling in the world. My time with Channel Islands and working with Al [Merrick] for all those years had a huge influence on me, not only for my surfing, but for my understanding of surfboards and what makes them work. I am so lucky to have spent those years of my life watching a master craftsman create my boards for me. I didn’t realize until it was gone, but now I am forever grateful for those years.

Rob on Hawaii:
Hawaii is amazing and it always will be. It’s a special place for a surfer. I love going there, and now that I don’t compete, I enjoy it even more. I love to sit back and feel the energy — to paddle out and be amongst it all. It’s very humbling. I always thought that they should have a special trials for all the previous winners from the Pipe Masters: Gerry Lopez, Tom Carroll, the Ho brothers. I just think it would be really cool to watch. I still surf all the same spots that I did in the ’90s, mostly lefts. I was never a fan of Sunset or Haleiwa. But I’ll go right every once in a while. I’ve had some of the best sessions of my life in Hawaii.

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