It’s one of the most extraordinary events on earth. Pororoca is the world’s longest and most dangerous wave – almost 200km up the Amazon River. Once a year, there is just one chance to surf it. But if you catch it, the ride will last for kilometers and go for 30 minutes or more. Get it wrong though, and the alligators and piranhas are waiting. Mike Munro joined Australian big wave legend Ross Clarke-Jones in the fast-moving waters of the Amazon.
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Reblogged 2 years ago from www.youtube.comAnd how it’s transformed a Portuguese town.
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Nazaré, Portugal was for centuries just a small fishing village known for its fishermen and dangerous seas. Then one day in 2011, a pro-surfer named Garrett McNamara strapped on a surf board and rode a 78 foot wave right off its coast. It was a new world-record for big wave surfing and the moment that changed Nazaré forever. Now, Nazaré is the capital of Big Wave surfing. The secret to Nazaré’s giant waves lies under the surface, where a huge underwater canyon funnels swells right up to its cliffs, then launches that energy straight up, sometimes 60, 70, or 80 feet. Many surfers visit in the hopes of catching a 100-foot wave.
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Video: by @ianhayes
When the waves are bad, we are so desperate that we will ride urban runoff. Certain wave and tide conditions will build a sand berm that dams a river runoff. The river will break naturally a couple times a month. If the berm is high enough, water will eventually begin to trickle in to the ocean on its own (DIGGING IT OUT IS ILLEGAL) until the the flow rate of the river is so great that it creates some impressive rapids. The board that I am riding in this video is a board that I designed with Catch Surf and am excited to be releasing this month. It is a board that can be used as both a boogie board and a great entry level skimboard. I think it is going to be a big hit with the groms.
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Friday, August 13th, 2021 was a day that’ll go down in Teahupoo surf history. Documented by the legendary Tim McKenna, featuring chargers like Kauli Vaast, Nathan Florence, Jerome Sayhoun, Eimeo Czermak, JB Prunier, O’Neill Massin, Ramzi Boukiam, Justine Dupont, Lucas Chianca, Matahi Drollet, and Manoa Drollet.
Edit: Kaelan McKenna
Filmed by: Tim McKenna
Additional footage: Tahitiflyshoot, Heimiti, Fierro
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