This was Nic Von Rupp’s action in the last Swell at Nazaré. Good waves, big waves and long rides from behind the lighthouse to the inside of Praia do Norte.
Not everything was rosy for the Portuguese who took one of the biggest Wipeouts of the day.
He lost his balance and had to abort the board. The fall was not very serious since he chose to jump headfirst to try to pierce the water so that the wave does not take him away. But not everything went as planned, in the replay it can be seen when the wave takes him “over the falls” in a fall of more than 8 meters. It seems (and we hope that it has been) that at least it gave him time to take one last breath of air before entering hell.
Nic is without a doubt one of the best big waves surfer out there and he has been proving it in every swell.
At the close of last year, Nic said his goal this year was to grow as a big wave surfer and ride the biggest wave of his life. We are in March and it seems that Nic started off on the right foot.
Good job Nic💪
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Reblogged 2 years ago from www.youtube.comWhile there’s nothing they can do on land that completely compares to handling a wipeout on a 50-foot + wave at Jaws or Nazaré, big wave surfers are increasingly finding new, creative ways to get as close as possible to the harrowing experience. Join Kai Lenny, Lucas Chumbo, Ian Walsh, Justine Dupont, and other elite Red Bull surfers for a truly unique training mission in Hawaii.
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Reblogged 2 years ago from www.youtube.comWatch more surfing films with a FREE TRIAL of Echoboom Sports, the essential subscription for action sports films available on all your favorite devices. Get it now at http://www.tryEchoboom.com
Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world’s most decorated big wave surfer, Greg Long. The film’s title, Sine Qua Non, is a Latin phrase, which, roughly translated, means, “Without which, [there is] nothing.” Greg Long presents the viewer with a first-hand account of the life-threatening pursuit of big waves as well a look at the horrific wipeouts involved, including one that nearly ended his life. Going deeper, Long admits his pursuit could be viewed as selfish, especially when surrounded by a very close-knit family that is concerned first and foremost about his safety.
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Sea Skating – Amazing Stuff
WORLDS BIGGEST WAVES EVER SURFED!
Big wave surfing is the ultimate celebration of extreme surfing. Challenging deadly waves in harsh weather and ocean conditions takes a very serious approach.
Big wave surfers are not interested in performance. Forget perfect cutbacks, stunning floaters or breathless aerial antics. The profile of a big wave rider is the result of several unparalleled personal characteristics.
Fear is always present in a 50-foot wave. Fear is the best way of managing the risk of paddling for a huge wave face, which doesn’t tell you what is going to happen and how it is going to break.
Monster waves tend to move quickly and force surfers to get away of the powerful whitewater. Big waves are lethal even for the most experienced extreme riders. The best big wave surf spots in the world have claimed several lives in the last decades.
Malik Joyeux, Sion Milosky, Moto Watanabe, Mark Foo, Donnie Solomon, Todd Chesser, Dickie Cross and Peter Davi have passed away in extreme surfing conditions. Wipeouts, severe coral reef injuries and drowning are the most common causes of death in big wave surfing.
Reblogged 2 years ago from www.youtube.com