Biggest Wave Ever Surfed

Wave of the Day: Matahi Drollet, Teahupoo, Aug 13, 2021
Matahi Drollet is no stranger to giant Teahupoo. His older brother Manoa (along with Raimana Van Bastolaer) was among the first crew to really charge here over a decade ago; Manoa was also the one towing Matahi yesterday, during one of the biggest swells to hit that bit of reef since Code Red in 2011. We covered the day in realtime, where Kauli Vaast caught (but didn’t make) one of the most mutant, biggest waves ever in the morning. Others, including Lucas “Chumbo” Chianca and Eimeo Czermak, were whipped into and made XL beasts through the course of the day, but Drollet played the patience game. This paid off around 5pm, right before sunset, as the swell peaked and he was whipped in the perfect spot by his brother and took the perfect line through an impossibly heavy, crazy loud, building-sized tube — and straight into surf history.
Video: Tim McKenna
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This was the biggest wave ever recorded in all of history.
And scientists are worried it could happen again…

The biggest wave ever recorded was documented in Lituya Bay, in the southeast of Alaska, when an earthquake triggered a series of events that resulted in a mega tsunami. History and science books consider it to be the largest tsunami of modern times.

On July 9th, 1958, at 10:15PM, a magnitude 7.8 earthquake caused a rock slide of around 40 million cubic yards in the Gilbert Inlet. Rocks, glaciers, and other debris fell from an altitude of approximately 3,000 feet, and the consequences were brutal.

The event resulted in the highest wave in recorded history. The mega tsunami itself measured 300 feet high, but the following breaking wave became much bigger. As the giant mountain of water traveled across the entire length of Lituya Bay, it reached a peak height of 1,720 feet near the Gilbert Inlet, then destroyed everything around it.

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Bethany Hamilton (Hanalei, Hawaii, USA) adds to her legendary reputation by towing into a big set wave and ripping it to the end at Jaws, Maui, Hawaii at on January 4, 2016. Video by Shannon Reporting. An entry in the Billabong Ride of the Year category of the 2016 WSL Big Wave Awards. For more information see www.WorldSurfLeague.com/bigwave.

There are some waves that you really don’t ever want to encounter when you’re swimming in the ocean. Square waves look like a giant chess board over the ocean. It’s pretty awesome but incredibly dangerous.

Other videos you might like:
8 Places You Should Never Swim In (Even If You Want To) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP6i5iXzLJI&
10 Popular Cities That Can Be Extremely Dangerous for Tourists https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8EcRcJRwyo&
9 Places You Should Never Swim (Never Ever!) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhrctVyD4JI

TIMESTAMPS:
Where you can see square waves 1:22
How they come to be 2:23
The perfect storm 3:48
Other dangerous bodies of water 5:46
The Boiling Lake 6:00
West End, Grand Bahama Island 7:03
The East and North Coasts of Barbados 7:48
Condado Beach 8:22

Preview photo credit:
Cross swell. Photo taken from Phares des Baleines (Lighthouse of the Whales) on Île de Ré: By Michel Griffon – Own work, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12598928
Animation is created by Bright Side.

Music by Epidemic Sound https://www.epidemicsound.com/

SUMMARY:
– If you look off the western coast of France, you’ll see the Isle of Rhe. The coolest part about it is what you see just beyond the shore: square waves. This strange wave pattern looks like a giant chess board over the ocean.
– When two different swells coming from opposite directions meet, it’s known as a cross sea. This is what generates these square waves you see near the Isle of Rhe.
– Because these two seas have totally different weather conditions, a unique pattern emerges when they collide. They create a riptide that’s stronger than your average wave – way stronger than what you’ve probably experienced at the beach with regular waves.
– There have been a handful of cases where people got caught in the cross sea, but, thankfully and luckily, they managed to get out safely.
– These square waves have become somewhat famous over time given that there’s really no other place in the world that boasts a cross sea like this one.
– The Boiling Lake on the Island of Dominica is one body of water you’ll definitely want to stay away from. From high heat to strong gas emissions, there are plenty of reasons to stay out of The Boiling Lake.
– You’ll probably want to steer clear of the town of West End on Grand Bahama Island. This deadly beach is known for being one of the most shark-infested beaches in the world.
– While the south and west coasts of Barbados are ideal for swimming and snorkeling, the east and north beaches have incredibly strong tides that can be quite treacherous.
– Condado Beach in Puerto Rico is a desirable destination in the city of San Juan. However, the beach’s mighty waves and powerful current make this a very dangerous place to go swimming.

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