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Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world’s most decorated big wave surfer, Greg Long. The film’s title, Sine Qua Non, is a Latin phrase, which, roughly translated, means, “Without which, [there is] nothing.” Greg Long presents the viewer with a first-hand account of the life-threatening pursuit of big waves as well a look at the horrific wipeouts involved, including one that nearly ended his life. Going deeper, Long admits his pursuit could be viewed as selfish, especially when surrounded by a very close-knit family that is concerned first and foremost about his safety.
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Sea Skating – Amazing Stuff
WORLDS BIGGEST WAVES EVER SURFED!
Big wave surfing is the ultimate celebration of extreme surfing. Challenging deadly waves in harsh weather and ocean conditions takes a very serious approach.
Big wave surfers are not interested in performance. Forget perfect cutbacks, stunning floaters or breathless aerial antics. The profile of a big wave rider is the result of several unparalleled personal characteristics.
Fear is always present in a 50-foot wave. Fear is the best way of managing the risk of paddling for a huge wave face, which doesn’t tell you what is going to happen and how it is going to break.
Monster waves tend to move quickly and force surfers to get away of the powerful whitewater. Big waves are lethal even for the most experienced extreme riders. The best big wave surf spots in the world have claimed several lives in the last decades.
Malik Joyeux, Sion Milosky, Moto Watanabe, Mark Foo, Donnie Solomon, Todd Chesser, Dickie Cross and Peter Davi have passed away in extreme surfing conditions. Wipeouts, severe coral reef injuries and drowning are the most common causes of death in big wave surfing.
Reblogged 2 years ago from www.youtube.comSurfing the biggest wave in the world sometimes things go right and sometimes things go wrong, and other times things end with a great survival experience, a great rescue, with a happy ending.
In this video we can appreciate the great courage of the young surfer Ulisses Pereira, at only 18 years old he faces this gigantic wave. This day the swell in Praia do Norte was huge, but Ulisses decided to challenge Nazaré for the fourth time.
Ulisses was coming down the wave that was placed by the surfer Ian Cosenza, when in a fraction of seconds, something happens to Ulisses that makes him lose the stability of the board. Taking with him the biggest WIPEOUT of the season in Nazaré.
Fortunately, he was able to be rescued by jet ski, thanks to the heroic action of Eric Rebiere.
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Thank you very much!
#wipeoutnazare #surfwipeout #surfing
Reblogged 2 years ago from www.youtube.comOf all the years I’ve been to Hawaii & visited the world famous Pipeline Ive never seen it this big. This is by far the biggest surf I’ve ever seen the inside beaches of Oahu hold. When we visited for super swell Saturday last year we witnessed massive surf on the outer reef, but this is a whole different story. The amount of power the ocean has is astounding & this video is just another reminded of how small we really are compared to mother nature. I hope you enjoy & thank you for all of the stoke & support! – Ben
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Music in this VLOG:
Collapsing from Within
Experia
Solarium
Max Anson
Bring Out the Dead
Hysics
Won’t Be Long
South Pause
Wildcard
Hysics
Kenji
Ooyy
Be Strong
NIGHTCAP
Adrenaline Push
Bonkers Beat Club
Sometimes I’m Happy
So Vea