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What REALLY happened when pro surfer Owen Wright suffered a brain injury?

Popular Australian pro surfer Owen Wright famously suffered a traumatic brain injury while in Hawaii in December 2015.

His recently published autobiography, Against The Water, recounts what happened when a wave at Pipeline caused the injury.

But some details are vague or missing, and his recollection doesn’t synch with previous descriptions of what happened that day.

Fred Pawle tries to piece the event together, and is still left wondering.

From the Fred Pawle show, 7pm AEST Mondays on ADH.TV.

Watch the full episode: https://watch.adh.tv/fred-pawle-full-shows/season:2/videos/stephen-wilson-paul-zanetti-monday-4-september-2023

Listen on Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/episode/7LJE1YS9AnphETFbSoB3NJ

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https://open.spotify.com/show/44ISFXCYFB6zbvOTAjokyx

Reblogged 1 year ago from www.youtube.com

Bodysurfing Mavericks with Kalani Lattanzi – Mavericks Awards 2023

http://www.MavericksAwards.com

This segment of the 2023 Mavericks Awards features Brazilian bodysurfer Kalani Lattanzi, the first person to bodysurf the big wave trifecta: Jaws, Nazare, and Mavericks.

The Mavericks Awards is a digital video performance contest in which big wave surfers and videographers submit their best surf content from Mavericks from the entire winter season. Founded by Jeff Clark and Chris Cuvelier, our mission is to celebrate Mavericks and the brave men and women that surf it. Our values of respect, inclusion, equality, safety and environmental stewardship guide all our decisions and how we operate the Mavericks Awards.

Reblogged 1 year ago from www.youtube.com

Unleashing the Epic Surf in Tenerife 2023 Mesmerizing Surfers Conquer the Canary Islands

#Surfing #Tenerife #canaryislands

LIVE! Riding Waves in Tenerife 2023: Beautiful Surfers Mastering the Canary Islands’ Swells!

Get ready to witness the most epic surfing experience in Tenerife as the most attractive girls conquer the waves in the beautiful Canary Islands. Join us as we explore the stunning beaches, waves and witness the sheer talent of these amazing surfers. From breathtaking scenery to exhilarating moments, this video has it all. Don’t miss out on this unforgettable adventure, watch now and get ready to be amazed!

Reblogged 1 year ago from www.youtube.com

Capturing Giants with Big Wave Surf Photographer Sachi Cunningham

Sachi Cunningham is a trailblazer in the field of big wave photography. As one of the only photographers to swim out to the break, she braves frigid waters, massive waves and sharks to capture stunning images unlike anybody else’s. 

Cunningham started shooting photos of women on waves because she never saw photos of women surfing. She believes that seeing images of women surfing can change people’s perceptions and inspire more women to get into the sport.

Sachi’s work as a documentary filmmaker includes Chasing the Swell, which documents some of the world’s top big wave surfers, and SheChange , which follows a crew of female big wave surfers and depicts the challenges these women face in a male-dominated sport. Sachi’s work has helped to increase the visibility of women in big wave surfing and has helped to change the landscape of the sport.

Sachi Cunningham is a pioneer water photographer at San Francisco’s notoriously treacherous break, Ocean Beach. An award-winning filmmaker and photojournalist with degrees from Brown University and UC Berkeley, she is a rare female voice in the field of surf storytellers.

Her work has taken her from the deserts of Iraq to the shores of the Amazon for outlets including PBS Frontline, the NYTimes, LA Times, and top surf magazines. She mentors young filmmakers as a professor of journalism at San Francisco State University. A cancer survivor and mother, Cunningham has been included in both Surfline’s list of top filmmakers and Surfer Magazine’s list of top water photographers.

Reblogged 1 year ago from www.youtube.com

Big Wave Surfing Without Straps?

Don’t miss out, the latest from @lucasfinkrj is coming this Thursday. Stay tuned! https://win.gs/39sv6hl

#Skimboard #Nazare #BigWaveSurfing

Reblogged 1 year ago from www.youtube.com